The life and mountaineering of Tiziano Cantalamessa
On May 12, 1999, near Pioraco, Tiziano Cantalamessa fell from a rock face on which he was working in suspension to secure a safety net.
Thus ended, at the age of 43, the extraordinary life of what was considered the strongest mountaineer in the Center-South, worthy of appearing alongside the great names of Italian mountaineering. Collected by the author, the stories of friends who were lucky enough to share with him a part of the 25 years of mountaineering activity.
“Climbing was as necessary for us as air to breathe. It stopped us from anything or anyone. He should have stayed in the hospital in Ascoli on Saturdays and Sundays for a shoulder operation scheduled by the doctors for the following Monday. Like good mountaineers. possessed, however, it was inconceivable to waste the weekend in this way and, having made the decision, I waited for him under the wall with weapons and luggage. With two jumps Tiziano climbed it and ran happily to the Gran Sasso “. (Tito Ciarma)
“Tiziano tells me about his typical day when he goes climbing on the Gran Sasso. He wakes up at three in the morning, milking the cows, which he affectionately calls by name (…) then a nice climb to Corno Piccolo, or Corno Grande or maybe Pizzo Intermesoli and always tries to get back in time for the evening milking . Again forage and cleaning of the barn. As simple as drinking a glass of water! “. (Silvia Marone)
“… that morning, in winter, with the ice pouring from all sides, it was really impressive and it didn’t take long to understand that it would not be easy to be right. Nevertheless, Tiziano advanced, slowly, cautiously but advanced , he tried to avoid ice flows when he could, at other times he cleaned, to see it all in all it didn’t even seem too difficult and in the summer he is 6th “. (Franchino Franceschi)
“during two days of interminable waiting that Tiziano told me most of his life and stories that happened. Those stories and all the time spent together in the following years helped me to see the world with different eyes. To think that there are no invincible ones. I will be indebted to him forever “. (Marco Vallesi)
Massimo Marcheggiani was born in Frascati, on the Castelli Romani, in 1952. He is National Instructor of Mountaineering and Academic of the CAI. He has climbed with the strongest mountaineers in Central Italy and, from 1985 until his death, with Tiziano Cantalamessa, with whom he has shared, in addition to important climbs on the Gran Sasso, expeditions in Patagonia, in the Himalayas, in Pakistan.
He talked about his mountaineering and questioned his life in the volume ‘A Choice’ for the types of the Research Publishing Company. He directs the CAI mountaineering school in Frascati and manages an indoor climbing gym.
‘I have climbed a lot with Tiziano, from classic climbs without history to expeditions to Patagonia and the Himalayas; they were experiences that gave me the great opportunity to share long periods with him, side by side. There were hugs and fuck you, but this doesn’t make me forget how privileged I was to have been tied to his own rope, and for this I have the presumption of being able to tell something about him ‘.
‘I’m sure anyone who knew him well wouldn’t write anything just because Tiziano was a strong mountaineer. He was a complete, authentic and generous interpreter of the mountains, who left deep traces in the history of mountaineering, and for this reason unforgettable. My intent, and I hope I have succeeded, is to consign to the history of the mountains and the memories of men that delicate and sensitive mountain artist that he was’.
Publisher: SER Società Editrice Ricerche
Author: Massimo Marcheggiani
Publication: December 2011
Format: 15 x 21 cm